Wednesday, September 24, 2008

24th september

Drove through the Cote d'Ore today very beautiful .Lots forest and cropping and vines through rolling country . We arrived at Lyon through circulous route about 40 kms of avenue planted with Plane trees we can learn things here.Lyon is the 2nd biggest city in france quite sprawly but the centre very beautiful. Puffed our way up to the basillica very high and a great view over city .Got the look of a funky uni city lots of kids around and at least in the center . But the frustrating thing about France is that we wanted to go but wanted to eat first but in a huge city you can't eat before 7.30 at least.We waited until 7 for the traffic to quiet down needn't have bothered not really that busy . But finding a hotel a different story so in the end we are in an airport hotel .Its fine though good internet . this the time of lots of agricultural work ploughing only with reversible ploughs and working up very thoroughly no rush jobs here.Also making very late cut silage and cutting maize silage at a much greener stage than we do.C
wants me to say about firstly the huge vegetable gardens every house seems have and huge rows of firewood cut to exactly the same length all over the country ,about 1 meter long and about 150 to 200 mls in diameter .we presume this the size that fits the boilers .So alot of the same sort of activity that happens at home.Also some villages have alotments with huge plots.After we left Autun the first place we stopped was Cluny The abbey of which is a major tourist destination because it was the biggest until the construction of St Peters in Rome. But it was mainly destroyed during the revolution and only bits remain to try and get a grasp on the size of it.Part of it Napoleon turned into the national stud for horses and as luck would have there was sort of a show going on ,of which I wandered about seeing a great idea ,portable stables ,row and row of them and I saw on the truck how small they folded up to.
25th Set tomtom again to no toll roads and ended on this tiny road going over a mountain saw only 3 cars in 1 hr of driving but you just have to trust it .If we had gone over the side we would have just been one of those mysterious disappearances .Turned up in Geneva tried to find something appealing about but in the end if you can imagine all the civil servants in the world in one place that is what you would get. Don't bother. Even lake Geneva reputed to be a lovely drive Taupo eats it. Turned inland to the alpine valley ,this is serious skiville and C now panicking that we would be sleeping in the car but found a b&b in a town called Morzine sort of a Oakune type of place very seasonal lots of places closed until dec
The next did our châteaux .Firstly Chenonceau .Built on the river Cher its like a giant bridge and in fact was added on by one of the 5 woman who have molded the chateau. Henry 11 gave it to his mistress Diane de Poiters ,who laid out the gardens as they are today. When Henry was killed after a sporting contest his wife turfed her out and I think she continued across the river,to form a very large gallery or ballroom and even a hospital in the 1st WW . The gardens and kitchens intrigued C the most. Then to Chambord ,the grand daddy of chateaux .On approaching it is difficult to grasp the immenseness of the project and in fact it has over 365 chimneys more than 440 rooms and 85 staircases. The appearance appears to the architects desire to use every design style available. It was only ever a hunting lodge and was so cold and draughty that none ever took up permanent residence. We headed for the end of the Loire for the night and ended up in a place called Romorantin- Lanthernay a rather ordinary village not improved by the fact that all the village type hotels that tom tom knew were shut and we had to make do to with a Best Western type of bed .Which turned out ok esp as they still had very good food.
Talking about closing up Sunday and Monday are dodgy and then you have to be organised to make sure you don't need any thing between 12 -2 because ferme.
The next day we went through the Sologne area a prime hunting spot .All along the roads you see warning you about deer and in fact we saw another three crossing the road just ahead of us about 500mtrs from the next village. Also pig rooting on side of road .Interestingly the style of building changed abruptly to bricks I assume to far from the lime stone rocks.
We saw some Freisans by the road and decided to call in We had a great 2.5 hrs talking gesturing drawing and writing about farming .We joined them for a glass of wine and they gave us some of their local drop very special. The wifes brother plays rugby and his team are fund raising to go to WC in NZ. Crossed over to Burgundy and straight away the limousins gave away to charolais. I am really enjoying Burgundy lots of forests but farming in between and the rivers nice and clean .This looks the place for canal boating lots to do when you stop the barges are more like displacement launches with large cockpit space and the weather is great..To that end we ended up in Auxerres a town of 38 thousand built by a river. Treated ourselves to 3*** hotel Maximes. Town is dominated by huge Cathedral. I am afraid I can see Robyn why so many of your trips have included photos of these giant buildings .The quality of the work and the scale of it are compelling. If it sounds like we are driving eating and sleeping ,well that just about sizes up but the food oo lalal.Last night we had burgundy food and Pricey Paysanne doesn't mean pays anns bills a la Blenheim .It is actually type of dish .We ate beef tournados with fois gras .I am afraid you just have to put it out of your mind fois gras is absolutely divine.The staff were abit distracted because they were shooting a scene for a movie out side and they were gawping out the window continually. In the time we were in the restaurant ( about 1.5 hrs) they hadn't been able to the same scene with the gorgeous actress completed and as we left it still wasn't.
23th beautiful drive to town of Vezelay once again a magnificent Cathedral where St Bernard the 2nd crusade and Richard the Lionhearted set off with a mere 100000 men on the 3rd crusade. It is high on a hill affording fantastic views .I seem to unable to blog photos at mo they come up as hieroglyphics. Tonight the 23rd we are Autun ,a town still basically within walls of roman occupation of 10bc .There is the remains of a roman theatre that the locals use to watch football

Saturday, September 20, 2008

After visiting many troglodyte sites and Chateaux it was time to move on. It was decided as it has been hard to get the girls on a flight we settled on Nice .So we are going to do a loop of the Loire valley and down the East. Not going to Germany this time. But in the Dordgne region we visited la Roque St Christophe ,which has had 50000 years of habitation .With a small mus'ee of prehistoric finds including fertility goddesses with huge pendulous breasts made from mammoth ivory circa 50000 yrs. The site itself is fitted out as it was in medieval times .Then finishing with a torture room which I didn't we were going to get Mike A out of .Vee haf vays of making you talk.I didn't think I would sleep after that as it was unbelievable the methods man has contrived be cruel to one another. Mike was pleased to inform that they could work out now that the so called gentle execution of the guillotine was so quick that the brain would be working for many seconds after. We then poosled up the Vezere valley and then the night again at Sarlat .This 15-16th c town in a beautiful stone colour it has more protected buildings than any town in Europe. Next bidded farewell to P&M and the cyclists and set course north .We went to Oradour sur Glane which is a site that has been sealed off and completely left as it was since the SS sacked on June 10 1944 killing 642 of the inhabitants ,only 6 people escaped .The main st leads roofless houses burnt out cars and machinery .In the church the heat has been so intense the bell has dropped from about 20 meters in molten heap.

This village is above Limoges ,from advice we didn't go there. Spent the night in in a little village of Rochechouart .Its claim to fame is that it is the site of the impact of of one of the largest meteorites ever to hit the earth about 1.5 km in circumference and about 6000 million tonnes. The only sign of it is some of the buildings are in a different looking stone than you usually see. The hotel we stayed was great only 38 e ,a family owned business and had 5 course dinner for 23e.

When you driving along you you have to make sure that you don't need any thing between 12 – 2 because even the large stores close. Sometimes you do think about the good old NZ dairy just to quickly get a drink and a pie but its not the way.

From there we made for the Loire valley and stayed in Loches a walled village dominated by the Chateau on the hill . This was a lovely town again and the accommodation is very reasonable here just look around. I believe its cheaper than NZ .

We moved onto Saumur ,my only knowledge of this place was that the French army had an Equestrian academy ,it used to be called the Cadre Noir as they wear black uniforms. It is not run by the army any more but still wear the black uniform.

When we reached the city C rang ahead and we found the one in the rough guide was available. And what a find, called hotel De Lourdes it is run by a an English speaking couple. It is very quaint but renovated and central to town.

We went to see the display at the riding school and although they weren't all high school trained it was still very worth whileseeing them dance to the music very special.

Have arrived in Bois , couldn't find any where to stay initially ,when you are travelling you forget that the weekend other people might want to do things to,and the french are great travelers in their own country. So we are in a pretty ordinary hotel and when we wandered down into town we found that the food was disappointing too .However it is a good town for looking at a special chateau and then I hope that is about the end of looking at them

god I made it keep going you old fool
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our room in london
leaving in the cab
some likeness
St pancreas
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Friday, September 19, 2008

The louvre under here runs the metro full of shops i had no idea that the palace was so huge


Pont neuf oldest bridge over the seine
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C 's besotted with bloody carousel and view of abbesses metro fantastic to use we went all over Paris on them very easy and the claim is you never have to walk more than 500 meters to a station
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eating (again) out side jardin de Luxembourge
Parisians from St Germain area enjoying their lunch break
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velo s for hire
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This back in london at covent gardens very funny mime artist with great bod and also reasonable sword
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bollards front and back for precious little car
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view from sacre coure and of it

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Lovely produce for sale every where


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Beautiful buldings in our street
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well we had to pay for the trip some how
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The magpie in the toy carousel shop
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Top of hill Montmartre near Sacre Coeure
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our garden out side room in Montmartre
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Thursday, September 18, 2008

Next day back at Abbesses metro found that bloody station had a lift most of the way which would have saved much straining.

The metro ,at first daunting is an incredible piece of engineering the one ticket allows you to travel all over central Paris one way it is so easy to use and in fact every one does it . So we went down to the stop at the Louvre and caught the ubiquitous hop on hop off bus .First off Paris is a far grander city than London and that is in part the fact that ,it didn't suffer depredations during the blitz .probably also it being predominately roman catholic , the church did ring a lot out of its subjects for very grand houses of worship.napoleon also liked a huge building or two . I don't know why but the city is really beautiful. We went to Place de Concorde where during the revolution it is estimated that 1300 hundred of the aristocracy were guillotined , it is said the whole area was running with blood. As usual we walked and walked , poor old C not really feeling that flash. Had lunch near garden of Luxemburg's a huge area where the Parisians have lunch and play and lie on the grass. Jumped on bus again ,this tour gave 4 different tours we did 2. Got of at the Louvre again and went in only to discover that it closes at 530 we didn't even realise it was that late and then to discover it closes on Tuesday . The weather is absolutely beautiful about 26c so different from poor old blighty..

Some observations the Parisian men are as you sort of expect ,hair sort of longer ,wearing cream trousers and needle cord jackets . The French girls wear no makeup or plunging necklines and look oh so chic. The whole existence revolves around sitting around cafes with coffee or beer smoking and much talking. Montmartre where we are is perfect for this because, even though it has a lot of foot traffic going up to Sacre Coeur it still is really a village with heaps of boulangerie ,boucherie, patisserie friut shops fish shops (where the fish looks so fresh).

We have been following the locals and having hot chocolate and pastries.for breakfast. Very delicious and I'm sure better for not having a fag with it Our second sleep was very disturbed as we very hot and there is no tea facilities in the room ,we went back to sleep and woke up at 10 o'clock .A much needed catch up and we were both in a better frame of mind. As the Louvre was out we decided to go to muse dOrsay a building (building doesn't do it justice) to see the impressionists .We spent about 2 hrs wandering around looking at Manets Monets Pissaro's Van Gogh Renoir's and many others .No real security and so close that you could touch them .

After flagging a bit we revived with a coke continued wandering around until we caught metro home.

We went back to top of hill ,I bought some art from a market then we had a beautiful dinner at a little cafe at top .

Last day in Paris boo hoo we decided to stay in the village and look around it as we had to heading to Montpanasse to catch Tgv for Bordeaux by 4 .

That all went very smoothly ,our metro from Abbesses took us all the way without having to change .

There is very little warning that the train is leaving , the doors close and you are off.

The countryside was mainly cropping ,lots of sunflowers ,for seed or oil I presume. Interestingly also large amounts of wind turbines in the paddocks not close together though and didn't look that offensive. We were expecting lots of shrills when we disembarked ,but as luck would have it we followed one another around before seeing them.

Bizarre seeing Mike and Philly in Bordeaux .The house is absolutely fantastic ,and Mike and the credit card have been having time completely out fitting it. Philly made us a french meal and we collapsed into bed

St Pancras has just been renovated and when we got there just put my credit card in the Eticket machine and it spat out our London -Paris tickets and Paris -Bordeaux tickets very easy .The trip was very quick .I got Tom tom out (a mistake as it turned out) and we were travelling at 280 kms/hr .You don't feel the the descent under the sea or the rise on the other side. Chatted to an English couple who spent every winter in Oz and they had camper vanned around NZ.
Arrived in Paris and the difference is immediate ,disparately looking for the Metro signs .We bought a carnet a dix (ten tickets for tube and bus).Through looking at lines in different colour worked out where we wanted to go .So headed off .When we emerged from a station clambering up many flights of stairs carrying over 50 kg of luggage we thought we had gone to far and had arrived in central Africa ,very black faces every where. Ha thats OK we thought turn on tom tom ,well tom tom had enough power to fire then immediately died ,flat battery. Oh fuck. I had bought a watch with a compass on it but that didn't like the northern hemisphere and never went up here .I then had bought a compass in London but the map we had didn't show north. Any way we found a street map and headed down the road,Murphy was busy however and when we reached the next Metro stop we saw we had been going in the wrong direction .I could see that this stop would take us to our hotel and I wondered why the guide at the station hadn't said this one. Well because Rue Abbess (our street) is near the Sacre Couer at the top of the hill in Paris and we had to carry those bags for what seemed never ending flights of steps out of the underground ,finally making it up to the top my heart thumping in my ears thanking god that C hadn't bought any thing yet .I can tell you ,even on the Eurostar one bag is enough, but on the Paris metro there is little time to mount the train before the whistle blows.
Once at the top though our hotel was easy to find and we collapsed inside for awhile getting heart rate down out of dangerous level .
It has been fun wondering what the hotels are going to be like .In England I thought it was going to be a dump but it was actually in a very good area and the shared toilet wasn't a problem. Although the room was tiny ,it had been refurbished. In Paris ,we have a garden room which sounds swanky but the room looks abit like the bach ,but it is larger and the garden area is lovely.
After a rest we wandered up the hill stopping on the way for a beer (C found it improbable that I would need a drink after 6 hours with nothing and losing about a liter of sweat carrying the bags.
So much for the French not getting drunk the first one we meet in a bar is absolutely bladdered ,but still very charming and definitely wanting to talk. The lessons not going to well .When we said that we were going to Bordeaux and he couldn't understand us I knew we had a way to go. Again beautiful buildings bent around narrow winding streets. You wouldn't have a good car here every other one had been side swiped ,but they certainly have embraced the scooter. We lucked the Sacre Coeur covered in a beautiful pink light and the view over Paris Stunning.Walked around where all the famous painters have gathered and there are heaps plying their wares .Went back to cafe near our hotel and C had tagine of lapin yes folks thats rabbit and I had duck great food. While we there, a taxi driver stopped his cab partially blocking the road ,came and sat down had a coffee from a cup that looked like it had come from Lisl's barbie tea set ,blow cigarette smoke over us all the while talking very animatedly on his cellphone Eventually driving off ,after maybe 10-15 mins . They have disdain for authority I find appealing

Wednesday, September 10, 2008

St Pancras has just been renovated and when we got there just put my credit card in the Eticket machine and it spat out our London -Paris tickets and Paris -Bordeaux tickets very easy .The trip was very quick .I got Tom tom out (a mistake as it turned out) and we were travelling at 280 kms/hr .You don't feel the the descent under the sea or the rise on the other side. Chatted to an English couple who spent every winter in Oz and they had camper vanned around NZ.

Arrived in Paris and the difference is immediate ,disparately looking for the Metro signs .We bought a carnet a dix (ten tickets for tube and bus).Through looking at lines in different colour worked out where we wanted to go .So headed off .When we emerged from a station clambering up many flights of stairs carrying over 50 kg of luggage we thought we had gone to far and had arrived in central Africa ,very black faces every where. Ha thats OK we thought turn on tom tom ,well tom tom had enough power to fire then immediately died ,flat battery. Oh fuck. I had bought a watch with a compass on it but that didn't like the northern hemisphere and never went up here .I then had bought a compass in London but the map we had didn't show north. Any way we found a street map and headed down the road,Murphy was busy however and when we reached the next Metro stop we saw we had been going in the wrong direction .I could see that this stop would take us to our hotel and I wondered why the guide at the station hadn't said this one. Well because Rue Abbess (our street) is near the Sacre Couer at the top of the hill in Paris and we had to carry those bags for what seemed never ending flights of steps out of the underground ,finally making it up to the top my heart thumping in my ears thanking god that C hadn't bought any thing yet .I can tell you ,even on the Eurostar one bag is enough, but on the Paris metro there is little time to mount the train before the whistle blows.

Once at the top though our hotel was easy to find and we collapsed inside for awhile getting heart rate down out of dangerous level .

It has been fun wondering what the hotels are going to be like .In England I thought it was going to be a dump but it was actually in a very good area and the shared toilet wasn't a problem. Although the room was tiny ,it had been refurbished. In Paris ,we have a garden room which sounds swanky but the room looks abit like the bach ,but it is larger and the garden area is lovely.

After a rest we wandered up the hill stopping on the way for a beer (C found it improbable that I would need a drink after 6 hours with nothing and losing about a liter of sweat carrying the bags.

So much for the French not getting drunk the first one we meet in a bar is absolutely bladdered ,but still very charming and definitely wanting to talk. The lessons not going to well .When we said that we were going to Bordeaux and he couldn't understand us I knew we had a way to go. Again beautiful buildings bent around narrow winding streets. You wouldn't have a good car here every other one had been side swiped ,but they certainly have embraced the scooter. We lucked the Sacre Coeur covered in a beautiful pink light and the view over Paris Stunning.Walked around where all the famous painters have gathered and there are heaps plying their wares .Went back to cafe near our hotel and C had tagine of lapin yes folks thats rabbit and I had duck great food. While we there, a taxi driver stopped his cab partially blocking the road ,came and sat down had a coffee from a cup that looked like it had come from Lisl's barbie tea set ,blow cigarette smoke over us all the while talking very animatedly on his cellphone Eventually driving off ,after maybe 10-15 mins . They have disdain for authority I find appealing

Friday, September 5, 2008

Bath cathedral
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We had a great day with traditional Sunday lunch at village house .Not home killed lamb though that is not allowed. Nor is skipping at school in case someone should fall over and skin their knees. When we left them we wenr to see the roman stepping stones that cross ogmore river nearly 2000yrs ago worn very smooth by much passage. Hop showed us a new 2000 house development that has recently been completed. The developer has to have it all planted all the services in shops and schools built to get permission to build it .So there is an example of proper planning .In the Uk you can sell any field that you want in almost any size but it never can be built on ,it always has to remain rural ,which means that there is a huge difference in price between rural and urban and the farm land more or less reflects its earning capacity. This has also had the effect of any stone dwelling short of the dog kennel has been turned into dwellings.

Marg came home from a very heavy weekend in South Hampton ,it was great seeing her in the flesh for the first time.

So onward with the journey on Monday and after farewells to wales we set tomtom for bath.

The river Severn bridge is pretty impressive and that is the boundary between england .On arriving in bath we got on the hop on bus for tour but the weather started misbehaving again and after some lovely fuel in a cafe( served by a girl who she said had had 3 drunken years running a night club in Queenstown ) .We wandered about .bath is all made out of a certain stone ,so on initial viewing it all looks the same but it has been designed in a manner after the Palladium effect which gives the houses a very grand look about them. The real purpose is to visit the Roman bath site of which the original design with the water flow is still functioning after nearly 2000 yrs. The scale of the site is remarkable.

We then pushed on in the rain to Wills place Stratford .We found a b&b near the centre and collapsed into bed.

After a great breakfast ,this place is a goody,we set out to explore Stratford .The confusion with all the avon rivers is when the romans asked the Celts what the name of the river was they said Avon which was the name for river. Stratford upon avon has been a tourist destination since the 17 century and famous writers like Dickens (in fact he started the fund to restore the birth place)Walt Whitman Tennessee Williams and many others have scratched their name on a glass in the house .It s not surprising therefore that the place looks a little touristy they have had a lot of practice. I thought that that would offend Will but it turns out he was not a struggling writer for long and that he bought many houses for investment in the town. Not bad after starting off marrying your pregnant 26 yo girlfriend at 18 and having almost no prospects. The house that his father bought for them reflected their state. The amount of work he produced till his early death at 52 ( I think thats bloody early) is really remarkable .

C was keen to have a look at a canal boat ,and so chatted a bloke up to have a look at his one , it was beautiful with a lovingly restored 1949 Gardiner diesel in it. My thoughts are that it might be OK in Europe ,but in Brits lousy weather it would do my head in chugging along at 3kn or stuck in a tiny prison on rainy day.

From there we were having castle withdrawal ,so spent the rest of the afternoon at Warwick castle a beautiful one it is to. Again built in that 1200-1300 period god someone was very busy. Especially as they brought the stone was brought all the way from mid wales this not a small distance .The reason apparently that the local stone is quite a strong red colour OK in a house but not the thing in a castle,you can imagine it can't you “the earl of of Warwick has built a bloody great red castle it looks absolute dogs bollox”. Talking about castles I didn't realise that they had toilet systems and also complicated chimney systems woven into the walls ,we could see that clearly in the Harlech castle ruins. I 'm not sure what I thought they were doing crapping in the corner or something. The stair systems up the tower turrets are fantastic always running clockwise ,and with 300ml risers you go up very quickly. The clockwise twist means its hard for an attacking right handed swordsman to swing his blade .apparently they used to left handed to attack the towers. I could feel my thighs were tight after going up and down those steps. It is pretty dear to go to these things but much better value than at home because there is enough for a whole days looking. Unfortunately we never have time for that .

Onward to see Gaynor and Ian at Nottingham .Gaynor was very excited to see C and we had a pretty heavy night that night on the fizz. Ian confessed that since he had been to NZ he only had drank kiwi wine and proudly showed us his chocker wine fridge ,a sight to gladden Price's eyes. Speaking of Pricey he sent me a text to say Winny has finally been sacked. Also Pricey I found a relation of yours Richard Price an eminent philosopher sent America a draft for the declaration of Independence and it was adopted word for word. God I am all over the place today.

The next day we set off for a day look at the city of York ( Ian is a Yorkshire man with that lovely dry wit only available to the English) .I am writing this in London listening to the revoltingly insincere drivel of John McCain on BBC news.

York is another beautiful city again. Famous for more Roman baths and its magnificent Minster .A giant or a cathedral ,built yes, 1200s.Also lots of very interesting shops ,an ancient street called the Shambles. We finished with a visit to Betty Tearooms very famous in Britain . Had a traditional Yorkshire tea and cake in lovely surroundings .There is a mirror there with over 600 signatures scratched on from airman stationed there during the war .Some kiwis , it said .

Ian didn't disappoint the male species by getting lost on the way home and pretending that he wasn't. Tomtom was waiting expectantly in the boot .

It was a teary farewell to Gaynor and off to Oxford .This was the first tiny wrinkle in the itinerary as we were dropping the car there but discovered that hertz is about 13kms away and the railway station has no left luggage facility. That meant our visit to Oxford was a little limited .To a drive around then a small walk .Enough to see the University covers a huge area and will visit for longer another time

Monday, September 1, 2008

me in front of village house
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would you pay $300 k for this
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Dave me and Gwyn Village house
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